Restoration/Cleaning FAQ Vol. 10 (READ PG.1 FIRST!)

1st February 2013 04:07
Is Angelus the best paint?
1st February 2013 04:08
Skyler_H32:
Is Angelus the best paint?

Yes, I wouldn't use anything else.
1st February 2013 04:15
ok thanks and how would i clamp that down
1st February 2013 04:17
Nikolas:
Tayvionp20:

which would be best to use for this type of seperation E-6000 Gorilla Glue or Barge Cement\

E-6000 would be the best.

Barge cement is only used for full sole reglues. E-6000 is best used with small separation. Make sure you clamp it down for atleast a few hours so the glue can cure.


Thanks and how would i clamp that down
1st February 2013 04:25
Tayvionp20:
ok thanks and how would i clamp that down

Nikolas:

Fill the toeboxes with plastic bags so there is force coming from the inside out.

Then you can use heavy duty rubber bands and clap the toe caps down.


Btw, I'll let you know how it turns out, Nix.
1st February 2013 04:30
thanks a lot ill be sure to post pics of the results
1st February 2013 04:58
So I cut the stitches, and it helped me discover a few things. Apparently, it's not sewed wrong, it's just a horribly manufactured pair. Apparently the left side of the tongue is actually longer than the right side of the tongue, and with no space to accommodate, it pushes down the toughest part of the tongue onto the foot, which happens to be right over the joint. Cutting the stitches allowed the tongue to slide up a bit, but the thickness and roughness of that section of tongue still causes discomfort that has yet to be alleviated. I considered sewing that portion of the tongue onto the side wall, but when I press the bump against the wall, the rest of the tongue becomes misshapen due to the excess material. I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do.
1st February 2013 10:18
I read these and got confused.

-Take your rubbing alcohol on a small cotton ball (squeeze most of the alcohol out before rubbing the cotton ball on the to be painted part) Lightly scrub the surface of the area that is to be painted. Be careful of where the black paint or blue paint is (use q-tips for sensitive areas)

-how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ???

-Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard

I'm confused because in some directions it say remove paint. But scrubbing lightly doesn't remove the paint it kinds of cleans it. So what do I do?

Am I just wiping the surface of the shoe to ensure there is nothing on it?
Or
Am I suppose to remove the paint by scrubbing?


Acetone absorbs the old paint which is then absorbed into the cotton. Scrub as hard you would need to to get down to the bare midsole. You are actually taking the paint off, not just making sure there is nothing on it. It may take a while to work through multiple layers.

Read more:' http://solecollector.com/forums/Restoration-Cleaning-FAQ-Vol-10-READ-PG-1-FIRST/7:2:1129952/p73/#ixzz2Jdj1DlOZ'

I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?
1st February 2013 20:09
just_4_shoes:
I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?


Don't scrub too hard or for too long on the material. Really what you're doing, is removing the protecting coating on top of the paint, so when you paint over it, it won't just wipe off. All you really need to do is scrub that layer, and sometimes the white paint doesn't necessarily need to be removed. Just make sure you don't keep scrubbing and scrubbing to where you've stripped the coating, paint, and then start damaging the material.
1st February 2013 20:21
Gnarled:
So I cut the stitches, and it helped me discover a few things. Apparently, it's not sewed wrong, it's just a horribly manufactured pair. Apparently the left side of the tongue is actually longer than the right side of the tongue, and with no space to accommodate, it pushes down the toughest part of the tongue onto the foot, which happens to be right over the joint. Cutting the stitches allowed the tongue to slide up a bit, but the thickness and roughness of that section of tongue still causes discomfort that has yet to be alleviated. I considered sewing that portion of the tongue onto the side wall, but when I press the bump against the wall, the rest of the tongue becomes misshapen due to the excess material. I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do.

I'm stumped too. I guess all I can say is to wear the laces looser on that part of the tongue so there isn't as much force pressing down, causing discomfort.

just_4_shoes:
I read these and got confused.

-Take your rubbing alcohol on a small cotton ball (squeeze most of the alcohol out before rubbing the cotton ball on the to be painted part) Lightly scrub the surface of the area that is to be painted. Be careful of where the black paint or blue paint is (use q-tips for sensitive areas)

-how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ???

-Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard

I'm confused because in some directions it say remove paint. But scrubbing lightly doesn't remove the paint it kinds of cleans it. So what do I do?

Am I just wiping the surface of the shoe to ensure there is nothing on it?
Or
Am I suppose to remove the paint by scrubbing?


Acetone absorbs the old paint which is then absorbed into the cotton. Scrub as hard you would need to to get down to the bare midsole. You are actually taking the paint off, not just making sure there is nothing on it. It may take a while to work through multiple layers.

Read more:' http://solecollector.com/forums/Restoration-Cleaning-FAQ-Vol-10-READ-PG-1-FIRST/7:2:1129952/p73/#ixzz2Jdj1DlOZ'

I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?

This is the leather repainting guide:
Quote:
#3 b ! o h a z R D's guide to customization

Ok for newbs who feel they dont hav to read stickies. Here it is..... materials, steps, and tips ALL IN ONE THREAD for your PLEASURE! (ps. dont make another thread asking us)


GOOD COLORS TO GET AS A STARTERS KIT:
-black
-white
-red
-yellow
-blue

TO PAINT SHOES:::::

Materials:
-Angelus Leather PAINT
-Acetone (or shoe preparer) (home depot or hardware stores)
-Brushes (Medium, Fine, and Broad) (art stores)Buy the type called "shader" brushes
-Cotton Balls (for acetone) (pharmacies)
-Finish Coat (Waxy layer) (foot locker, shoe repair shops)



LEATHER MAY DIFFER FROM DIFFERENT SHOES. Feel the leather after acetoning and make sure the feel is NOT slippery. It should feel semi-rough and un-slippery.

(For flat colors add Liquitex Textile Medium (or matte) to your paint...maybe a 3:1 ratio of paint to medium. for gloss coat and gloss medium to the mixture)

PROCEDURE:
Step 1: Put Acetone on the Cotton Ball (be careful this ish is harmful use gloves) and rub area where you will apply paint. Make sure the waxy layer is off the leather (it will turn grey.. if not look at the cotton ball and if there is a paste like substance it is the waxy layer) Sometimes it will not be grey. Feel the surface of the leather to make sure it is not slippery. If the leather feels slippery, then you must acetone more.
***This is relli an important step in the process of customization in general. Cleaning the object is always important for the durability of the job. Be sure to clean it very well***

Step 2: Get paint ready (mix colors for ur needs) Now take your brush and apply paint once to your area (it mite be uneven DONT WORRY) and make sure it isn't bumpy or relli thick. LET DRY

Step 3: Apply another coat of paint to the area (it should look better now but not completely the best) LET DRY

Step 4: Apply the last coat but put the least amount of paint on your brush and this will be the last layer of paint. LET DRY.

Step 5: This step is optional. Angelus alreadi has a waterproofed coat but for a professional finish spray a waxy layer on the paint area. this will not make it shiny or dull and will not affect the colors.

NOTES:
*** waxy layer is another term for a waterproofer.***
-If you would like to use dyes, it is not recommended. Dye is if you would wanna fix up some old black shoes. Paints enable you to create custom colors.

::::notes on COLORS::::
-Primary colors: RED BLUE YELLOW.
-Neutral colors: BLACK WHITE GREY (get these 6 colors as the starters kit)
-MIXING IRREGULAR COLORS: here are sum irregular colors that u mite run into while tryin to mix
-TO GET TAN/GUM--- 65% yellow_30% brown_3%white_2%orange
-TO GET LIGHT RED--- 85% red_22% orange_3% white
-TO GET CAROLINA BLUE--- 65% blue_33% white_2% magenta(ppl mite object to this. but trust me. if u just mix 50% blue and 50% white with angelus u will get a blue more on the aqua side)
-TO GET LIME GREEN--- 85% green_15% yellow

:::notes on PAINTING::: (tips)
-do NOT paint in ONE thick coat. DO paint several thin coats
-DO wipe brush on side of jar after dipping in paint. This prevents thick, drippy, coats.
-DO use medium brush when painting areas that are not small nor big. (eg a swoosh)
-if u wish to paint the midsole, please understand that it will NOT stay on the rubber for a lasted amount of time and MAY crack. But if you do not care (or if you would just like to display them) you can use angelus paints to paint the midsole. but clean the surface well and paints about 5 coats. THen spray (or apply) varnish (longer lasting protection) after you are finish painting the midsole. Again, please note it is not recommended you paint the midsoles.